October 13 and 14th 2020
After staying very near home for about 8 months due to Covid
19 we set off for a short trip to the NC Mountains for some color and an escape
from the constant political and medical issues of the day. We headed east to Asheville on a cloudy
Tuesday morning with our masks at the ready and hope for the sunshine that the
weather report showed.
Mask and Clouds
By the time we topped Sam’s Gap the sun was breaking
through. We stopped briefly at the NC
Visitor Center since our NC map was old and worn on all the creases – a bit
different – masks of course but no pamphlets or maps out. You asked for what you wanted and they gladly
shared. Very few people around. We drove
to the Farmer’s Market and quickly picked up sweet potatoes and Honey Crisp
apples – our normal fall purchases – and headed towards Waynesville.
In Waynesville we stopped for lunch selecting a
Chick-Fil-A. Having not visited one
since February or March it tasted good.
Been on a pretty strict diet recently but off it for this escape! Then we searched for and found Haywood BBQ to
pick up some supper since our B&B did not have supper and was miles from
anyplace to purchase food on a narrow mountain trail. Found it easily. Busy place with indoor and outdoor seating.
Haywood BBQ in Robbinsville
We were headed to Robbinsville NC and were routed through Cherokee and Bryson City. Cherokee was much as we remembered – not very exciting. The Indian Village, a new museum, pancake houses, the park beside the river, many souvenir shops. There were quite a few people walking around and standing outside restaurants. A number of closed businesses were obvious. I snapped a photo of one of the many bear statues around town. One large one had a Covid mask but I missed getting a photo of it. Nothing made us want to stop. Neither one of us could remember where we ate when we were her on our honeymoon. We had been back once to visit the casino but were not too impressed.
Cherokee NC
Bryson City was thriving with lots of people moving around. This is the location of the Smokey Mountain Railroad. We have often thought of coming to take the train trip. Many locations to stay here as well as interesting shops and restaurants. Might be worth a trip back someday.
We headed to Robbinsville on 19,74 and 143. At Ingles in Robbinsville we began following
the step by step directions to The Owls Perch, our Bed and Breakfast, located a
few miles off of Rt 143 which becomes the Cherohala Skyway. We finally made the connection for the name
– combination of Cherokee and Natahala National Forests! We had good directions from the B&B but
managed to make one error and drove a few miles on a wrong mountain road before
we realized our mistake – then had to drive another mile or two to find a way
to turnaround. All these back-country
roads are single lane old logging roads from probably 40’s and 50’s. There seem to be quite a few homes back in
the area. When we retraced our travel we
were able to speak with someone walking along road and were soon on the correct
road. Interesting there are 2
cabins with red roof and fence!
Major Highways
Secondary Roads
Logging Roads
These 3 photos show the main 4 lane roads, the 2 lane secondary roads, and finally the single lane logging roads.
Finally we know we have made it!
Owners Carport - Owl's Perch the roof you see to left of main house
The area is lovely with fantastic creek views. We arrived at Squally Creek and The Owl’s Perch about 4:00. We met our host Alice, were shown to our room and got some directions about the location and breakfast. We then did not see Alice until breakfast the next morning.
Our room was cozy and included a small kitchen, a bath, a
very comfortable bed, a small table with folding chairs, and a lovely small
deck over the creek. We also had use of
a very nice porch with comfy furniture and a grill. We unpacked our few clothes and our dinner
and relaxed for a bit. Ben was a little
tired from all his driving so took a nap.
Jane was loving the creek views with very loud rushing sounds and yellow
leaves highlighting all the huge boulders.
Alice told us that with a mere 3 inches of rain, the water covered all
the huge boulders!
Creek view to the right
Creek view to right - including the owl on his perch
What a relaxing location. No cell phone signal, no WIFI, there was a land line phone we were encouraged to use if we wanted and satellite TV which included tons of channels and movies. We however chose not to use it and just enjoy being disconnected for the duration of our stay.
Heating up dinner was easy and the BBQ from Waynesville was
good. We had Brisket, Pulled Pork, Slaw,
Brunswick Stew and Green Beans. Not the best we have ever had but it was good
and we had plenty leftover. We had
enough for eating when we got home. Nice
to have the refrigerator in the Sprinter!
View out to the deck from inside cabin
We walked a bit along the logging road. It is very remote. There was one house about ¼ mile down the road that was a second offering by the same couple as our place. It was a little larger with a full kitchen, a bedroom, and a living area – known as the Junction (where two creeks join). A bit further on a bridge across the creek led to another home or two on the other side. We did not walk further up the road.
Sprinter near the bridge below the Owl's Perch
After a great night’s sleep Alice brought us breakfast which we enjoyed before heading out the next morning about 9:30.
Breakfast - Eggs, fruit, and pumpkin bread ...yummy
We retraced our steps back to Rt. 143 and headed first to Joyce Kilmer Forest. Regretfully the trail we both felt comfortable following to the area with the large trees was blocked due to problems of the trail. The trailhead had a few displays and a nice picnic area. We enjoyed recalling our memories of a backpacking trip there many years ago with the Gerwe family. I remember rain and what we called “Gerwe Miles” which related to the never ending “it’s only a few more miles” in relation to how far it was to our camping location. Ben remembers many more pleasant experiences!
After our short stop at Joyce Kilmer we headed west across the Cherohala Skyway. This limited access two lane road was completed in the 1990’s and is billed as one of the most beautiful roads in NC and most expensive to build. It had numerous pull offs and hiking trailheads. There were moderate numbers of cars, quite a few motorcycles, and then pick-up trucks with dogs in cages in their truckbeds. We were thinking bear hunting and when we asked later in the trip that was confirmed by one of the hunters. We must have seen at least 15 -20 of the bear hunting trucks. Many of them had radio antennas so they could continually track their dogs.
The sky was a beautiful blue and the tree color changed with
the altitude. In the lower elevations
only a few trees had changed – around 3,500 to 4,500 trees were beautiful, then
at the top 0ver 5,000 feet there were few trees. It was a lovely drive. At Spirit Ridge we stopped and took a .6 mile
hike to a lookout. Numerous mountain ridges to view.
Trail and View at Spirit Ridge
We arrived at Tellico Plains in TN about 12:30 ready for a
bathroom break and some lunch. We saw
Tellicafe just as we left the Visitor Center.
It had good reviews on Trip Advisor so it was our stop. We got takeout. Ben had a Ruben with fries
which he said was best he had ever had – and he has had more than a few
Rubens! Jane had a chicken salad croissant
and sweet potato fries. The sweet potato
fries had a light dusting of sugar which was unique but excellent. We only ate about half and again took the
rest home for later.
Ben remembered Benton’s Ham and Bacon was in nearby
Madisonville – how great that he remembered!
We found it and stopped in to buy some.
Got 2 packages of country ham, a package of bacon ends for seasoning,
and a pound of yellow corn meal.
Interesting watching the guys cutting ham in the back room. This place is the real deal. We had found the bacon and ham at a small
family store in Jonesborough. We liked
the ham more than the bacon. Jane thinks
she remembers paying $13 for the ham in Jonesborough – here at the origin - $8!
We headed on north to reach Knoxville and head up I-81 towards home. Took no more photos after leaving the
Skyway but it was a pleasant drive with only light traffic. Nice getaway ! No need to cook when arriving home as we had lots of leftovers!
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