Thursday,
June 07, 2012
Canyon de
Chelly, Chinle AZ to Gallup NM
Our night
was quiet in the Cottonwood Campground. When we first went to bed there were a
few dogs barking but they soon quit and it was very quiet. We slept well and
woke up to another glorious blue sky. Our day started with breakfast in the
Turquoise Lodge Cafeteria. The Turquoise Lodge is the hotel/motel run by the
Navajo on the national park. The food was provided in a cafeteria that served
both Navajo and American food. One of
the reviews said it was probably the only place in the world you could get a
Navajo Taco and a Jello Salad.!! Jane
had blue corn pancakes and Ben had biscuits and gravy. Both were good but not outstanding.
Our first
action of the day was to finish the visits to the Canyon de Chelly overlooks –
the ones on the south rim. There were two arms of the canyon and the south one
was not quite as deep. There was also no wind like yesterday afternoon so Jane
made it to the edge to view down into the canyon. The most outstanding of the
outlooks was the Spider Rock overlook with great views of Spider Rock – a spire
probably 600 feet high. It was the end of a long ridge and most of the ridge
was gone.
Spider Rock |
Ben views Canyon de Chelly |
Leaving
Chinle we drove south towards Ganado and Hubble Trading Post. The journey of about 30 miles was through
mostly desert plains with farms and some cattle but no crops. There must be hey
or alfalfa grown somewhere because bales are for sale lots of places. Not certain I mentioned the huge fields of
hay grown just north of Cortez – but they were huge fields and had large
storage facilities.
Hubblell Trading Post National Monument was much as it was 100 years ago. It was full of
beautiful jewelry and rugs as well as everyday merchandise. It operates much as
it has over this time period. We bought a pound of the coffee that has been
sold there for most of that 100 years and some blue corn flour. We could have
easily spent $500 for a rug but resisted the temptation. We also were able to
walk around the entire farm that had been managed by the Hubbell family – it is
still an operating farm today. The tour of the house had just been completed
and we opted not to wait for the next one in 1 ½ hours.
Hubbell Trading Post |
From Ganado
we headed west to Window Rock, the headquarters city of the Navajo Nation. They
have a legislature, and many national offices. We ate lunch under some trees
across from the House of Legislation which did not appear to be in session. They also had a very nice park near the
“Window Rock”. Since 2001 they have
installed a monument to honor the WWII Code Talkers. The original 29 were given the Gold Medal of
Honor by President GW Bush in 2001 and the other additional Code Talkers or
their family members were given a Silver Medal of Honor. Each of the Navajo’s
who served as a code talker had a commemorative brick with their name near the
monument. The Navajo seem to be very
patriotic.
Code Talker Monument |
Window Rock |
After lunch
we visited one of the Navajo Tribal Arts and Crafts Cooperatives. There was so
much beautiful jewelry, pottery, rugs, and other crafts – we could have stayed
all day but we had to get to Gallup before the Indian Supply Stores closed so
Ben could by silver! One really
interesting thing we observed in this store was a young Navajo mother with her
baby. In one of our museum stops a guide
told us of the usefulness of the baby carriers. The traditional ones where the
baby is laced onto the flat frame that has a support or shade over the babies
head. A story was told of a mother whose baby fell off the side of a horse but
was not hurt due to the protection for the head.Well we saw
a definite blending of the old culture with the new – the young mom we saw had
her very healthy looking probably 6 month old baby laced into one of the old
style carriers but it was then placed in a modern baby stroller!
We made it
to Gallup about 2:30 and found a campsite at USA RV Park. It has some really nice art work.
We immediately left for Indian Supply to look
for the flat silver Ben wanted. The place was very busy but did not have the
type silver Ben wanted. After looking around we headed to the main area of
downtown Gallup. There are more trading posts and galleries for Indian Arts and
Crafts in Gallup than even in Santa Fe or Albuqurque. We looked around for
about an hour and Jane finally selected a pair of silver earrings inlaid with
coral, turquoise, and lapis. We headed
back to our campground to rest and passed another Indian Supply store – so we
tried them and they had the silver Ben wanted as well as some beads in the same
colors as Jane’s new earrings….now we have projects for when we get home!
Gallup Shopping |
We wanted to
have a green chili burger while in New Mexico so we went to the best restaurant
in Gallup – according to Virtual Tourist – The Badlands Grill. It was a very nice restaurant. Our appetizer
was green chili won-tons with green chili marmalade – outstanding! They were gone before I remembered to take a
photo. We also had green chili hamburgers and some in-house made chips that
were quite tasty.
We are back
at camp, trying to catch up from several nights of poor internet. Not sure this
will be much better but we shall try to catch up the blog and pay bill or two
since they have a secure server.
Tomorrow
Chaco Canyon – the last of Ben’s Indian sites to see – then we start east !
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