DayTwo Olympic National Park

May 30, 2014
Wow!  What a fantastic day!  We woke to bright sunshine and ate a quick breakfast of some tasty apple smoked bacon and an English muffin.  Then we were off for a second dip in the hot pools.  Today we tried both the 102 degree which we spent time in last evening and in the 106 degree pool.  The second was indeed warmer but still felt very comfortable.  What a relaxing way to start your day!  The temperature of the freshwater pool was 70 degrees.  We skipped that one!  This resort was a wonderful place – perhaps more so because of the few people here.  We will add this to our top 10 places we have ever stayed. The season really does not start until mid June but you could not ask for a better day than we had today. We finally packed up and left about 10.

We drove back to the main road US 101 that circles the Olympic Peninsula.  Twenty miles south is the town of Forks. This is famous for the Twilight Books which we have not read; but evidently a very popular series.  We stopped in a market and Jane bought lunch goodies.  Smoked salmon, clam chowder, clam dip, some crackers, drinks, a pear and some cookies.  Needless to say she bought too much but we could keep all the leftovers except for the clam dip.

If ever in Forks WA this is a great little grocery

 Another 20 miles we turned back into the center of the peninsula to visit the Hoh Rain Forest.  The water comes off the ocean and it can’t get over the high mountains and falls as rain.  The drive about 20 miles along the Hoh river to the visitor center and picnic area was beautiful. We stopped several times to enjoy the views of the forest, river, mountains, and even a little wildlife.  A mama grouse was escorting her babies across the road.  We saw them scurry across – so tiny….but only caught the mama in a photo. The babies were lost in the grass by the time we could get a photo.

Mama Grouse

Road into Hoh Rain Forest

We enjoyed our lunch and then visited the Ranger Station for a passport stamp and some exhibits.  We decided to take the .8 mile hike through the oldest part of the forest – the Hall of Mosses trail.

Lunch

 The photos we have do not do the area justice.  Joyce Kilmer Forest in NC mountains is a rain forest with 80 inches of rain per year.  According to a ranger a forest must get 60 inches of rain to qualify as a rain forest – this place gets 142 !  Nearly everything is covered with moss.  First the phone booth and then trees etc. Ben says many of the trees remind him of the “ent” from Lord of the Rings.

Phone Booth at Hoh Rain Forest

While there was some climbing involved we – well Jane did fine – Ben has no trouble but long distances and climbing bother Jane’s back.  We made it fine with a few stops to rest along the way. It was an absolutely beautiful walk.

After the rain forest came another short drive towards the west – we followed the Hoh river (50 miles total length) to the pacific and then suddenly below high cliffs covered with fir trees was the great Pacific ocean.
About 10 miles south we found our home for the next two nights –Kalaloch Lodge. This is an old resort lodge built in the 1920’s and enlarged over the years with cabins added as the number of guests grew.  There are now a total of 60+ cabins and some rooms in the lodge.  There is a small store, a gas station, and a campground. This lodge was requisitioned by the coast guard during WW II and served as a lookout station for Japanese Submarines.  The family that owned the lodge lived in one of the cabins and the remainder housed the coast guard.  As with the other areas we have visited yesterday and today there is no cell coverage or internet.

Our cabin – # 10 is on a bluff with a beautiful view of the Pacific, the beach, and lots of logs washed about on the beach.  There are tsunami warnings posted everywhere. The sun is still shining brightly and although windy, we could not have more perfect weather.  There is a sheltered porch looking out over the Pacific – do not think it could be any better!  We have a wood burning stove, a refrigerator, and a microwave as well as a coffeemaker – if we had known we could have bought some breakfast goodies in Fork.

Our Cabin

Pacific Ocean near our cabin

We had a nice dinner overlooking the ocean. Seafood and salads and the only photo I took was of the ocean view!  We hope to be able to see a sunset about 9 PM - and we did!

Day One Olympic National Park

May 29, 2014
A lazy morning with room service.  After a good breakfast Ben left to walk about a block to the rental car office/bus station.  Jane stayed to pack away all our nice clean clothes.

"Our" Toyota for the next few days

 The car pick up went as planned and Ben discussed changing our bus reservation and hotel reservations based on what we could work out about our train back east.  After spending some time on the phone we discovered there had been a mudslide covering the tracks somewhere and trains had to be canceled for several days to clear the track.  We will just extend our trip 2 days and return on the same train 2 days later. We have something called a family room which is a little bigger but has bathroom next door. We can make it work,,, so we changed the reservations for the bus to Seattle, extended the rental car, and arranged for a room at the Red Lion on our return to Port Angeles.  We have 2 nights with no reservations and will just see where we end up!  It is not the peak tourist season yet so everyone says it will not be a problem.


Hurricane Ridge was the first part of Olympic National Park to visit.  This is a very diverse park with high alpine meadows, rain forests, hot springs, and pacific coastline.  Don’t think we will have any problem filling two extra days. As we climbed to Hurricane Ridge we were soon driving in the clouds.  We went in and out of the clouds, through 3 short tunnels, and noticed changes in the vegetation.

 There were several familiar wildflowers we recognized from our trip to Alaska.  Lupine, Indian Paintbrush and several others. Amazing to see them blooming and snow still on the ground here and there.  At the top 5,000 + feet we came out of the clouds and were able to see across the way to the long range of the Olympic Mountains - All still with snow on the peaks – heights ranging from 5,000 – 6,500 feet.

At Hurricane Ridge with us was a large class of elementary children all bundled up with gloves, jackets, and hats getting ready for a hike in the snow.  The temperature was 43 with a stiff wind.  We were not outside long and with all the layers on that we have with us we were fine but I would not want to take a long hike.
As we began our decent we saw a group  of 3 young deer. They were just beginning to grow their antlers.  Fifteen miles back down in Port Angeles we had a bowl of chili at a Wendy’s before we ventured west into another part of Olympic Park.

Several miles west of Port Angeles was an interesting project.  In the early 1900’s two dams were built on the Elwah river to produce power for a mill in Port Angeles. The Elwah was one of the most productive Salmon runs in the Pacific Northwest. The spawning runs were reduced from 400,000 to 3,000 when the dams were built.  In 1992 the US Congress passed the Elwah River Restoration Act . The first dam was removed in 2011 and the second was to have been completely removed in 2014. It is still being removed.  I can only imagine the political battles that must have raged in this area.

We stopped for a short hike to Madison Falls. There was a bus from an Assisted Living/retirement Home in Port Angles parked there and two ladies with walkers came rolling down the trail.  They told us the driver had gone back down the trail to help another person who could not make it alone.  Soon we met a gentleman sitting on his walker seat being pulled along by the van driver and followed by a 4th individual with their walker.  Got to hand it to these folks for getting out in this beautiful park and to their facility for bringing them.  It was a blacktopped walkway of probably 200 yards to the falls – it was uphill so I am sure it was a workout for them. The falls were beautiful!

Madison Falls

Continuing on down US 101 we passed Crescent Lake which includes two large resort areas of Olympic Park.  We had chosen to spend the night at Sul Doc Hot Springs Resort. It is located 17 miles into the park from US 101. US 101 circles the Olympic Peninsula and spur roads go to various parts of the park. We passed a salmon cascade in the Sul Doc river where in the fall salmon swim up stream.  We also passed through ancient Hemlock and Douglas Fir forest.  The forest is beautiful with undergrowth of ferns and other plants.  The ferns are huge.

Eventually we arrived at the Sul Doc Resort which includes the hot springs, numerous cabins, a restaurant , gift shop,  a campground, 3 mineral pools at various temperatures, and a fresh water lap pool.  We have a very nice cabin with two beds, a table and chairs, a sofa and nice bathroom. Missing are phone, TV, and internet.  There is no cell service here either so perfectly peaceful. 

Our Cabin at Sul Doc

 

Nice Roomy Cabin

We visited the pools for about an hour and will go back tomorrow morning when the pools are open for those of us in the cabins for an hour before the public is allowed in.  It was not at all crowded but I imagine will become so as the weather warms.  Temperature is in the 50’s and pleasant with a long sleeve shirt.  The pools range in temperature from 107 to 98. 

The 3 hot pools - each a different temperature

Large Freshwater Pool

 We enjoyed the 102 degree pool most of the time.  It was certainly relaxing!  Ben went to try swimming laps in the fresh water pool but came right back! Too cold!

Appropriately one of the offerings on the dinner menu was salmon so that was what we both ate – it was excellent! 

Back to the Good Ole USA

Up and began putting everything back in the suitcases  - ready to get on the road!

We walked around the corner to a small cafe and had a good breakfast.  Ben had scrambled eggs, bacon and toast and Jane had something they called Eggs Bennie.  This place is small and has 6 breakfast choices – all $10.  Simple!  The Eggs Bennie was an english muffin, slice of sausage, poached egg with a orange chipotle hollandaise sauce.  It was good!!

Eggs Bennie

We left our luggage with the front desk and headed over to the museum for the IMAX show on the Vikings.  I learned some world history and even Ben learned a thing or two!  Hope our next long trip can be to Newfoundland to see the landing site of the Vikings in the new world.  The gift shop was nice but we did not purchase much – limited space you know!

Included here is a photo of the British Columbia National Christmas Tree and a statue of Queen Victoria. The grounds were getting their summer planting of annuals today as well as numerous school groups having the class field trip and picnic.

Queen Victoria and over 100 year old tree

Flowers, School class and Christmas Tree

We were planning to have “High Tea or Afternoon Tea” as our last activity here in Victoria.  After considering several locations we selected the Gatsby Mansion. We were seated at a small table on the porch of this lovely Victorian home overlooking their lovely garden.

View from Gatsby Mansion Porch

We selected our tea and enjoyed the first course of fresh strawberries, blueberries, and heavy whipped cream along with some biscotti.

First Course

  Then came a three tiered tray filled with all kinds of goodies.

So Many Goodies

 One level was savories – prosciutto and cheese on small croissants, cucumber sandwiches, pate, salmon with dill – all were excellent and tasty!  The second level had hot blueberry scones with butter, honey, and a sweet tart preserve.  The final level was filled with sweets – key lime tarts, chocolate mousse, and a sweet filled cream puff. All delicious! It was certainly a fun treat – maybe I will have a tea party to celebrate something !  Jenny and I have the tea cups for a large party from Ben’s grandmother!

One of Numerous Stain Glass Windows - Home built in 1897

After returning to the hotel to pick up our luggage we headed to the COHO ferry terminal. It was only about 1 1/2 blocks so we were there and waiting for the customs officer about 2.  The ferry pulled out exactly at 3 PM.  The crossing was smooth except for about 20 minutes when we had to cross the current.  The wind was high supposedly bringing in the bad weather. Some large waves even sprayed the people outside on the deck!  The crossing took 90 minutes from Victoria, British Columbia  to Port Angles, Washington.  Good to be back in the USA!!!  No dogs or inspections at all – just showed passports and answered a couple questions.

Good to see USA - low building along land is our hotel Red Lion

We had again selected our hotel for location. Two blocks from the Ferry terminal and with a coin operated laundry!  We were even able to upgrade to a water view for $10 so here I sit typing the blog looking out at a beautiful water view.

After a quick supper here at the hotel -  Ben is doing the laundry and will call me when it is ready to dry and I will take over from there and dry and fold.  Good division of the work! I took this photo of some snapdragons outside the door of our hotel - I can't believe the flowers here - their weather is much warmer than I had anticipated. There is a really stiff wind though - think I will be getting out the rain jacket tomorrow for wind.

Snapdragons at Red Lion Inn

Bad news for the day is we just received an email from AMTRAK that our Seattle to Chicago train is canceled – no reason just to call…so we will have to deal with that tomorrow.  Surely there will be someway to get back home! Remarkably so far there have been absolutely no glitches.

Victoria British Columbia

We slept so well, don’t think either of us moved. We slept fine on the train but it was so quiet here and so much space!

Breakfast was in the lobby of the hotel where they had a small but adequate buffet. Other option was to go across to the Gatsby Mansion or a neighborhood cafe.  We may try one of those options tomorrow. The view out the window was pleasant.  There are flowers planted and blooming everywhere!
Walking to the BC Museum we passed by the BC Legislature Building.  Beautiful building and grounds. Tours were available but we passed that for right now but had a nice discussion with an young lady in 18th century dress.  The legislature is in session through the end of May and will then be out of session during the summer.

View of Gatsby Manor

British Columbia Legislature

There is a special exhibit on the Vikings from Sweden at the museum as well as a new IMAX film on the Vikings.  We  toured around the special exhibit as well  as 2 of their 3 large exhibits.  Very nice museum on the level of the Smithsonian.  The Viking exhibit was very interesting as we had never seen anything like it.  Their craftsman ship in silver and other mediums was excellent. Anyone from any walk of life could be a “viking”  (warrior or explorer) for a period of their life.  So you could be a farmer or trader or whatever for most of your life and occasionally go on a “viking” for 2 months – 6 months or any length of time.
Also of interest was the craftsman ship of the early inhabitants of  British Columbia.  Sounds like their history was much like that of the Indians in US. The British did not treat these tribes any better than we did in the US or maybe worse.  One group only got what they considered a fair agreement with the government in the 1990’s. The art and particularly the Totem poles were magnificent.

Viking Jewelry

Viking Silver

Lower part of a totem that was door to home

It is supposed to rain tomorrow so we will go back to the museum for visiting the gift shop, and see the Viking IMAX. 

We walked along the waterfront enjoying the sunshine and scenery.  We were looking for Red Fish, Blue Fish where we planned to eat Fish and Chips for lunch.  Located in a shipping container on the waterfront they are supposed to have some of the best fish in Vancouver.

Ben in line at Red Fish Blue Fish

Fish and Chips

Dining Room along wharf

We found it and enjoyed some excellent Fish and Chips.  You did indeed order at one end of the container – pick up your order at the other end and eat along the side of the wharf.  We ate beside a family from  Highpoint NC.  The visitors to this area seem to come from all over the globe.  On the other side of us were 3 ladies from Australia.

Panorama at Waterfront

After our lunch we strolled back towards our hotel. We stopped at the Empress Hotel to walk through the public areas – we noted the Tea Room, the Bengal Lounge, and several very interesting shops. You could easily spend $1,000 in very short order!  We also enjoyed walking around in the gardens. The rhodendron, azaleas, and roses are beautiful.

Garden at Empress Hotel

Beautiful !!

 We have discovered our stamina is not quite what it was 10 years ago so do not think we will try touring the gardens in the up island part of Victoria. Island  Just not enough time or energy to do it justice!
About 2 PM we chose to make the short walk back to the hotel and rest for a couple hours.

Water Taxi Victoria Harbor

About 5 PM we walked back down to the waterfront and  took one of the water taxies to China Town.  These little boats carry 1-10 people to variety of locations around the harbor. Quick little 10 minute ride with some narration about what we were seeing.  They left us with instructions to call when we were ready to return.

Walking around China Town was a bit underwhelming. It was interesting but most of the shops closed at 5 PM and it was a much smaller area than we had thought originally. Reading in Trip Advisor I was not expecting too much but it was still fun.  We chose to eat dinner at Don Mee which was one of the oldest and had good ratings. Dinner for 2 was good – some things excellent and some OK.  We had beef lettuce wraps, won-ton soup, 4 main dishes – crispy beef, lemon chicken, shrimp and veggies in bean sauce, and a chow mein dish.  The Beef Lettuce Wraps, Chow Mein and Lemon Chicken were excellent among the best we have had.  Ben found a beer he had tasted on the train – and says it is his new favorite.  We have found prices expensive here – maybe it is the city, the country, or just us used to East TN!  Examples – this dinner which might have been $25 - $30 at home was $45 here. 

Most of Dinner for Two

Earlier today a Pepsi from a vending machine was $2.25.  We are interested in seeing how the prices change when we reenter the US tomorrow. 

We walked back down to the taxi stop, called and within 10 minutes the taxi arrived.  Interesting driver.  He asked where we were from and when we said TN – he said did we know about Sam McGee ? We knew the poem written by Robert Service about Tennessean who died in the Yukon. He was amazed – said he had asked  many others and no one had known – we are just so well traveled and read!
Back at the hotel we watched a little TV, finished the blog, and read a bit.    

The Canadian to Victoria British Columbia

It was hard to believe today was our last day on the Canadian - after more than 3 days it seems like home! A small home but we had everything we needed and with the addition of the Panorama Car so close to us it was even better the last half of the trip. The breakfast was good as usual. Today we opted for what they call the Transcontinental - eggs, bacon, hash browns, and toast.  We ate with different people each meal - today it was a couple that live on Victoria Island.  They took the Canadian from Vancouver to Toronto - stayed a few days and are on their return leg.  Last evening we we are with a couple from outside Toronto that were on their 6th trip on the Canadian.  They go once a year and have been in nearly every month from February through October. We have had fun and enjoyed the trip but it would seem to me if you love train travel there would be lots of different trips! But then that is me.

Logs on the Fraser River

 
The first scenes out the window this morning were of a huge river rushing past - overnight two additional rivers joined the one I spoke about yesterday - it looked as wide as the Mississippi at Memphis. Floating on the river were lots of logs tied together into floating rafts.  We were ahead of schedule and were expecting to reach Vancouver about 1 hour early -8:45 instead of 9:45. Packing when you travel light took only a few minutes and we were saying goodbye to Carla and headed into the terminal.

WIFI was still not so good but Jane was able to get the blog posted without many photos.  Will just have to post them later.  Caught up on email and got our boarding passes for the next leg of our journey.  We were taking the Costal Pacific Bus to Victoria which included a ferry ride.  It worked perfectly.

Outside Central Station in Vancouver

Jane waiting in tine for bus to ferry

Bus drove us an hour to the terminal outside Vancouver.. Lots of traffic and construction in Vancouver. Ben was very glad he did not have to drive!  When we arrived at the terminal the bus drove right down into the lower level and along with many other large vehicles. Tractor Trailer Rigs, large trucks, buses and campers. 4 rows deep and 10 or so per row. It was a huge ferry.  We took an elevator upstairs to level 5 for a huge cafeteria - there were 3 restaurants, 2 gift shops, restrooms, and a business center. We sat in a very large area with probably 200 chairs.  There was another viewing level above us. Below us were 2 levels for autos.
The crossing through the channel islands took about 90 minutes.  Then we got back on the bus and were driven about 45 minutes to the southern end of Victoria Island - right to the center of Victoria. This is a wonderful set up for those who do not want to rent a vehicle.

Ferry makes way through the channel islands

From the Victoria Bus Station we were 1 block from the Empress Hotel, 2 blocks from the Royal BC Museum, 3 blocks from the Ferry Terminal we will use to depart on Wednesday - and 4 blocks from our hotel.  We are one block from the Waterfront and are able to walk easily.  We headed straight to our hotel which we had selected primarily due to its' location.  It turned out to be very nice with a balcony that overlooks the waterfront, a kitchen which we do not need, a couch and great bed.  After living in an area less the size of just the bed for 4 days - it seems like a palace!

Ben near the waterfront  on our walk to hotel

View from our hotel terrace

Resting a bit we read about the sights and began to plan our time here.  We will leave on the COHO Black Ball Ferry for Port Angeles Washington on Wednesday at 3 PM

We ate dinner at a highly rated nearby restaurant - Harbor House.  Ben had Oysters Rockefeller and Jane had a Haddock Filet with a shrimp and lemon sauce.  Both were very good and we had only walked 1 block!. Afer dinner we walked along the waterfront stopping in the Ferry Terminal to confirm we did not need a reservation to walk-on the ferry on Wednesday. 

Back at the hotel we planned to relax with books, trying to post the blog, and a relaxing bath and shower. There was a shower on the train but it left much to be desired. It was the only part of the train travel that was not A#1 - it was passable and they made it as good as it could be with their resources.